Geckos
Leopard gecko care guide
Eublepharis macularius
A ground-dwelling, crepuscular gecko from arid grassland. The old 10-gallon recommendation is obsolete — they need floor space, a real gradient and enrichment.
Terrestrial — floor space first
New to reptiles? Check your keeper level first →Leopard gecko enclosure size
Terrestrial — floor space first. An adult leopard gecko should live in at least 36" L × 18" W × 18" H; we build toward 48" L × 24" W × 18" H (4 × 2 × 1.5 ft, roughly 8 sq ft of floor and about a 90-gallon glass equivalent).
- Hatchling / baby
- 24" L × 18" W × 12" H recommended · min 20" L × 12" W × 12" H
- Juvenile
- 36" L × 18" W × 18" H recommended · min 24" L × 18" W × 12" H
- Adult
- 48" L × 24" W × 18" H recommended · min 36" L × 18" W × 18" H
Temperature and heating
Overhead halogen creating a warm surface, on a dimming thermostat. Heat mats alone don't warm the body properly.
- Basking / warm surface
- 94–97°F surface on the warm end
- Warm side (ambient)
- 85–90°F ambient
- Cool side (ambient)
- 70–77°F ambient
- Night
- 67–74°F
Lighting and UVB
UVB: T5 UVB 5–6% over the warm end (UVI 2–3 at basking). Run lights on a 12–14 hours photoperiod, on a timer, and replace UVB bulbs on the manufacturer's schedule even while they still emit visible light.
Humidity
Target 30–40% ambient. Dry overall with a permanently moist humid hide.
Substrate and depth
Topsoil / play sand mix (no loose calcium sand). Depth: 3–4 in.
Get a cleaning schedule for this substrate →Enclosure tips and furnishing
- Three hides: warm, cool and humid
- Rocks and low climbing structures
- Shallow water dish
- Clutter and sight breaks
Build list
- 36–48in front-opening enclosure — Space for a genuine warm-to-cool gradient.
- Halogen basking bulb + T5 UVB — Surface heat plus UVB is the current standard of care.
- Digital thermostat — Every heat source must run through a thermostat — unregulated heat burns animals.
- Two digital probe thermometers + hygrometer — Read the warm side, cool side and humidity directly — stick-on dials are inaccurate.
- Topsoil/sand substrate mix — Diggable, dust-free, and safe versus calcium sand.
- Three hides + moss for the humid hide — Shedding problems trace straight back to a missing humid hide.
Leopard gecko FAQ
How big should an adult Leopard gecko enclosure be?
At least 36" L × 18" W × 18" H, and we recommend building to 48" L × 24" W × 18" H — about 4 × 2 × 1.5 ft, or a 90-gallon glass equivalent. Terrestrial — floor space first.
What temperatures does a Leopard gecko need?
Basking or warm surface 94–97°F surface on the warm end, warm side 85–90°F ambient, cool side 70–77°F ambient, night 67–74°F. Overhead halogen creating a warm surface, on a dimming thermostat. Heat mats alone don't warm the body properly.
Does a Leopard gecko need UVB?
T5 UVB 5–6% over the warm end (UVI 2–3 at basking). Photoperiod: 12–14 hours.
What humidity does a Leopard gecko need?
30–40% ambient. Dry overall with a permanently moist humid hide.
What substrate is best for a Leopard gecko?
Topsoil / play sand mix (no loose calcium sand), at a depth of 3–4 in.
How big does a Leopard gecko enclosure need to be for a hatchling?
Hatchling / baby: 24" L × 18" W × 12" H recommended, minimum 20" L × 12" W × 12" H. Scale up to the adult footprint as the animal grows.
How often should I clean leopard gecko enclosures?
Spot-clean daily and deep clean on a schedule that depends on your substrate. Get a cleaning schedule.
Sources
Put this guide to work
Apply these targets to your own leopard gecko record, then log feedings, sheds and weights against them.