RecoveryAmphibians
Amphibian care basics care guide
Amphibia
The fundamentals every frog, toad, salamander and newt keeper needs: clean dechlorinated water, stable humidity, gentle temperatures and minimal handling through permeable skin.
Terrestrial — floor space first
Amphibian care basics enclosure size
Terrestrial — floor space first. An adult amphibian care basics should live in at least 18" L × 18" W × 18" H; we build toward 24" L × 18" W × 18" H (2 × 1.5 × 1.5 ft, roughly 3 sq ft of floor and about a 34-gallon glass equivalent).
Size up for large species like tiger salamanders and pacman frogs.
- Hatchling / baby
- 18" L × 18" W × 18" H recommended · min 12" L × 12" W × 12" H
- Juvenile
- 18" L × 18" W × 18" H recommended · min 18" L × 12" W × 12" H
- Adult
- 24" L × 18" W × 18" H recommended · min 18" L × 18" W × 18" H
Temperature and heating
Amphibians overheat easily. Heat the room rather than the tank where possible, and put any low-wattage heat source on a thermostat. Never use heat rocks.
- Basking / warm surface
- Most amphibians do not bask — no basking spot
- Warm side (ambient)
- 72–78°F for tropical frogs
- Cool side (ambient)
- 65–72°F for salamanders and newts
- Night
- A few degrees cooler than day
Lighting and UVB
UVB: Low-level UVB (2–5%) benefits many frogs; always provide hides and shade. Run lights on a 12 hours on / 12 off photoperiod, on a timer, and replace UVB bulbs on the manufacturer's schedule even while they still emit visible light.
Humidity
Target 60–100% depending on species. Mist with dechlorinated or RO water and keep a clean water dish. Log humidity readings to spot drops before skin problems start.
Substrate and depth
Coco fiber, sphagnum moss or a bioactive ABG mix. Depth: 2–4 in.
Enclosure tips and furnishing
- Water dish with dechlorinated water
- Hides / cork bark
- Live or silk plants
- Leaf litter
Build list
- Water conditioner / RO water — Chlorine and chloramine burn permeable skin.
- Digital hygrometer + thermometer — Humidity and temperature need to be read, not guessed.
Amphibian care basics FAQ
How big should an adult Amphibian care basics enclosure be?
At least 18" L × 18" W × 18" H, and we recommend building to 24" L × 18" W × 18" H — about 2 × 1.5 × 1.5 ft, or a 34-gallon glass equivalent. Terrestrial — floor space first.
What temperatures does a Amphibian care basics need?
Basking or warm surface Most amphibians do not bask — no basking spot, warm side 72–78°F for tropical frogs, cool side 65–72°F for salamanders and newts, night A few degrees cooler than day. Amphibians overheat easily. Heat the room rather than the tank where possible, and put any low-wattage heat source on a thermostat. Never use heat rocks.
Does a Amphibian care basics need UVB?
Low-level UVB (2–5%) benefits many frogs; always provide hides and shade. Photoperiod: 12 hours on / 12 off.
What humidity does a Amphibian care basics need?
60–100% depending on species. Mist with dechlorinated or RO water and keep a clean water dish. Log humidity readings to spot drops before skin problems start.
What substrate is best for a Amphibian care basics?
Coco fiber, sphagnum moss or a bioactive ABG mix, at a depth of 2–4 in.
How big does a Amphibian care basics enclosure need to be for a hatchling?
Hatchling / baby: 18" L × 18" W × 18" H recommended, minimum 12" L × 12" W × 12" H. Scale up to the adult footprint as the animal grows.
Is there anything to be careful about when keeping a Amphibian care basics?
Amphibians absorb chemicals through their skin. Wash hands before and after handling, never use soaps or tap water with chlorine, and keep lotions away.
Sources
Put this guide to work
Apply these targets to your own amphibian care basics record, then log feedings, sheds and weights against them.